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Code 55 is "OK" 😁

Woohoo 🙌! Such a huge win

No problem, wipe it off the best you can.

Where are you located? I relocated to WA

@CoreysZ32 washington as well around the Seattle area. Closer to pacific raceways to be specific

I did the same thing and now my speedo, tach, fuel and temp gauges quit working. Have no idea how to go about fixing it. Any luck with yours?

@@ansoni1441 i checked the fuses in the box beside… in the bix ess one for the 10amp fuses blown… chrck them frist

Ooo that's a good question.. i believe the fault codes still show even after repair has been completed until some time has passed, which is likely a different length of time per code. To prevent confusion on my personal cars, i disconnect the battery for a little bit, then the code is cleared and memory wiped. then I drive for ~10mi to make sure the fault doesn't come back.

@@CoreysZ32 Great! Thanks so much for coming back to me! I'm due to collect it next weekend. So I'll be sure to do this little task and see what flashes. Failing this trick, is there a diagnostic tool you can buy to read the vehicle?

I need to make some more just to binge 😊

96 is awful. It is supposed to have a similar mode for pulling codes from the ecu directly, and also supposed to have obd2 and consult implemented. I'm only able to get data from my 1996 with a nisbie usb consult adaptor to ndsi on my android phone. Bluetooth doesn't work. Obd2 and torque doesnt work. And I wouldn't try this method

@@CoreysZ32 ok so at the ECU there's a red light and a screw, turn it clockwise 1 full turn, wait 2 seconds, then turn it counterclockwise to the original position and the ECU will flash codes.

​@@kelving.2200did that work for you? I recall something like that... I can grab my 96 fsm hardcopy later if not

@@CoreysZ32 I reset the ECU by turning the screw with a flat head 🪛. I followed the directions and the code went away. But the engine light pope back on once in a while and goes away when you restart the car. I still have idle issues doe, tends to drop and bounce.

For some reason there's like an electrical issue sometimes on start nothing but the lights work, and after about 30 seconds everything is good to go. I found one short

You can try pb blaster on the top oring, twist the injector 360 a ton of times to help lubricate, then use flat screw driver between injector connector and rail, twisting. It will mar both surfaces and possibly break the injector connector but it works. Recommend $30-50 vice from Harbor frieght instead

thank you. what size vice do you have? @@CoreysZ32

Same thing happened to me, did you find it?

Hi Troy! There could be fuel leaks causing the system to drop pressure. Check my other video to tighten the fuel clamps, this gets worse in the winter, perfect time to check it all anyways!

@@CoreysZ32 yes I already did that it just seems like it's flooded or it's not

​@@troycummings7465 by flooded, is it hard and sluggish to crank? Did you try w/ jumping? Sometimes a battery can crank but not start due to voltage drop. Cold weather means weak batteries too

Yes, i recommend it for safety reasons. The fuse as others mentioned is also OK and likely easier, if it is by the battery in the smaller fuse box. Usually green on Nissans.

It's crazy how common the fuel leaks are! The damper and regulator clamps are often the leakers since they are harder to tighten and less likely to have been checked

Possibly! It's also possible that the circuit wasn't the same for every ECU. What is your year, transmission type and TT/NA?

@@CoreysZ32 5spd twin turbo. '95

@@muh_tee_us thanks! When i get my filthy hands on one I'll compare the circuitry

Plug back in the fuel pump relay. Put gas cap back on. Turn key to "on" and wait. Fuel pump will prime. 300zx has a fuel return so the bulk of the air will not be trapped. After 5sec, crank as normal. It may take a few extra seconds of cranking. Good to go.

@CoreysZ32 Im going to be replacing my fuel pump as well do I need to do anything else after replacing it?

@@fatadidasman2952 make sure to buy the fuel pump o-ring since it will fail immediately when removed. Possibly buy two since they swell on contact w fuel. I recommend to replace the fuel filter at the same time and then watch my video on tightening fuel clamps. Then you can really feel done with it all!

You disconnected the starter relay in the same location. This is typically a blue relay. No stress, simple fix and you will be back on the road 🙌

Curious, are you near Seattle? There are quite a few people that couldn't get this working and I'd love to figure out why... and can pull the codes for you with my fancy tools

Glad it helped! First time removal is the worst

@@CoreysZ32 it honestly wasnt that bad. however I found out my car had been crashed lol. nothing major just a hole in the bumper support. couldn't get the side brackets to go back on with my new stillen bumper though :/ ran out of time and will have to do that next time im with the car

Yes, so much easier to work on and keep on the street.

Thank you!

Or if you dont have screw extractors, drilling the small hole then tapping in a torx driver works too. These screws are held in with low torque and don't need much to back off

Hi Glendon, I'm surprised I don't have one! I only have a few videos once removed. - 300ZX NA Coolant Bypass - 300ZX, Remove exhaust valve cover - 300ZX Exhaust valve cover install (With EGR) - 300ZX Intake valve cover install And the video showing the differences in NA/TT, Early/late intake manifiods.

No worries. I have a 91 twin turbo and I think the coolant lines underneath the plenum are leaking. It seems like such a daunting task.

@@glendonrichards686 you are probably correct. The coolant lines to the throttle body aren't necessary in climates above freezing and are just a liability. The coolant lines to and from the turbo are still necessary (as long as your turbo is designed for water cooling). I haven't done a TT bypass/cleanup in a very long time, but i know there are more hoses than what most people replace and I highly recommend replacing all. I remember one behind the head on the LH side that is super easy to miss. Z1 has a nice pre-formed silicone replacement hose. Read up first, gather the recommended tools. The first time is definitely recommended to have a secondary car you can drive as long as you need, and do the work at the comfort of your home / garage where you can walk away and read the wiki/forums when you get stuck. Eventually it will become very intuitive and simple, and it helps making z32 maintenance feel more comfortable.

Some years of Z32, you can reach all 4 egr bolts to the intake manifold from below... But I think it is 94-96 NA only... But that trick saves so much back pain. Take an aleve or ibuprofen before starting. It can really help with all the leaning over in the bay.

Also keep in mind that almost all bolts are going into aluminum. Almost the whole job is low torque. Use a torque wrench and the factory service manual for guidance for the whole thing. I can't tell you how many stripped threads and leaks I've seen at the balance tube. Plan on getting new balance tube o-rings, and remember the side brackets go above the balance tube flange. And the PCV hoses will be rock hard if original. You will want another set. Get the PCV valves (oem) while you are there. It can prevent a disaster down the road. Also... Clean out the egr tube as best you can. Vacuums, drill bits, pipe cleaners, anything you can do to clear the carbon buildup. There are two openings on the sides of the egr tube, not the top. I moved to WA if you are local.

If i recall correctly, just move your mouse to the right of the screen during a race and a side panel will come up. Clicking the options turns them off/on.